YESSSSS!

Today has been a quiet day for me.  No one around.  Bread to bake and surf.  So, after the wonderful loaf of cinnamon cardamon swirl bread and two small loafs of cinnamon swirl bread were finished, I went off to the beach.

Me, my board, and the surf.  The wind was blowing so hard that I did not get my windscreen up.  I was planning a bit of reading too but the setup failed with just me.  I actually lost one of my tent stakes.  Not a huge frustration. 

I was thinking about it on the way home.  All the little frustrations of the day:  traffic, not getting out of the house as soon as I would have liked, losing a tent stake, were nothing to the joy of standing up today. 

YESSSS!  I stood up and rode my board all the way in.  Me and my spoon.  The damage I have done to my body in the last eighteen months means that I have not had enough shoulder strength to actually paddle hard enough and get up fast enough to ride.  Now, there were some things that helped:  fresh wax, more powerful surf, almost sets in Galveston.

But you know what?  I stood!  I stood!  I stood!  The smile on my face was so big that I thought my face was going to split!  Such joy. 

I wanted to be in the water longer, but between the wind being so much it was very hard to carry my board, weather coming in, and being hurt from the Oregon coast, I did the wise thing and did not push it.  I may still be taking ibuprofen before bed but I got home safe and sound.  That is always a good end to the day.

I stood!  I stood!  I stood!